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95 VW Jetta GL Overheating & Fans don't turn on.


 
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95 VW Jetta GL Overheating & Fans don't turn on.
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dumbo316



Joined: 07 Jul 2008
Posts: 3



Post 95 VW Jetta GL Overheating & Fans don't turn on. Reply with quote
Check it out. my jetta is overheating. I had the water pump replace because I noticed that there wasn't any water flowing to the radiator. Water does flow but it is still overheating and the fans do not turn on. ANSWERS plz. Also my clusters aren't working and it only reads RPM's. ANSWERS plz thnx.
Mon Jul 07, 2008 6:07 pm View user's profile Send private message
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tameshome



Joined: 08 Jul 2008
Posts: 1



Post Reply with quote
FYI...I am a novice at this stuff.... Believe it or not, my Jetta was overheating yesterday too. I don't know the cause yet...but it is usually bad. You might want to check the relay regarding the cooling fan - I know there is a relay above the regular fuse box on my 97 Jetta and looking at the relays just as if you were sitting in the driver's seat, the far left relay is the radiator fan/AC relay. It costs like $12 at NAPA. I replaced mine recently with hopes of getting the AC to work, but the fans started working when I replaced that relay. Unfortunately, they stopped working again.

My temp gauge was all over the place yesterday, so I am suspecting a thermostat for mine. Although, at almost 200K miles, I am sure it could use a cooling system flush. If I only had some $$$!
Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:11 pm View user's profile Send private message
biobrnr



Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 4



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I've been trying to fix a friends 96 with 2.0, replaced thermostat, waterpmp and housing, pressure cap. ran it for twenty miles did really well then the fuel pump stop working cleaned it working fine now overheating again. what a mess! Changed the thermostat again was fine for seven miles and then over heated again. The old waterpump housing had a small set of cracks on the back side. sometimes there will be an air pocket in the top radiator hose and will cause the overheating. The radiator fans were not working, there is a control box over the driver front wheel below the over flow tank. when the car overheats the coolant drips on the box. The box is a speed control switch with a 20 amp fuse in the top. my box has a power lead that runs to the fans thermoswitch that is screwed in the radiator. replaced the switch and still didn't work. i decided to bipass the box and switch by running a wire from the fan plug to the fuse box under the dash and stuck it in the side after the fuse so the fans come on when the ignition is on. worst case there could be another crack somewhere or could have a blown head gasket. i have been trying to fix it now for almost two weeks. let me if you find any solutions.
Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:09 pm View user's profile Send private message
dumbo316



Joined: 07 Jul 2008
Posts: 3



Post Reply with quote
biobrnr wrote:
I've been trying to fix a friends 96 with 2.0, replaced thermostat, waterpmp and housing, pressure cap. ran it for twenty miles did really well then the fuel pump stop working cleaned it working fine now overheating again. what a mess! Changed the thermostat again was fine for seven miles and then over heated again. The old waterpump housing had a small set of cracks on the back side. sometimes there will be an air pocket in the top radiator hose and will cause the overheating. The radiator fans were not working, there is a control box over the driver front wheel below the over flow tank. when the car overheats the coolant drips on the box. The box is a speed control switch with a 20 amp fuse in the top. my box has a power lead that runs to the fans thermoswitch that is screwed in the radiator. replaced the switch and still didn't work. i decided to bipass the box and switch by running a wire from the fan plug to the fuse box under the dash and stuck it in the side after the fuse so the fans come on when the ignition is on. worst case there could be another crack somewhere or could have a blown head gasket. i have been trying to fix it now for almost two weeks. let me if you find any solutions.


how do i know if its a blown head gasket?
the times i've driven the car the water temp light flashes but the temp gauge stays steady in the middle, but only when i drive it.
when its in idle it does not over heat. i left it on for an hr and it was fine.
i checked the reservoir and when i rev it tiny air bubbles are visible.
CAN ANYONE ANSWER? thnx
Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:58 pm View user's profile Send private message
daem



Joined: 19 Aug 2008
Posts: 1606



Post Reply with quote
Hi Gentlemen, I was building Canola diesels long before it was popular. I am not a mechanic but am self taught.
This is my insight as a journeyman millwright. As an apprenticeI spent a year repairing commercial water pumps .

Every VW water pump is doomed to fail eventualy, and sooner than they should. Why they are a compromise between weight /// function /// manufacturing costs ///and final assembly
There is a formula in engineering called the coefficient of liear expansion of steel. Briefly this means a 3 inch steel shaft in that pump grows and shrinks as the engine gets hot and cold. The temperature change from minus 50 to plus 250,or 300degrees X COE X 3 inches works out to exactly 10 thousands or 0.010 You do not want the impellor to touch the housing when it gets real hot.
So living in a bloody cold place it is realistic to put a pump together at minus 50. NOT LIKELY. However sinse I do not want to seize a pump I call that 0.010 the safe running clearance. My shop is about 65 the low end of mid range.
Doomed to premature failue. YOU BET. Turbulant water slowly erodes aluminum. The most turbulant spot is between the impellor and the housing. After 50,000 kms wear is signifigant. Aside from bearing failure this is part of the reason
manufacturers reccomend changing the water pump when changing the belt.
What does this have in common with your difficulties?????? Yesterday I bought a new 1/2 pump from my local Vw dealer. Unlike most people I will pull my housing , and blueprint my unit, carefully machining the housing until I have zero clearance . Then I will make a .010 new gasket The dealer supplied gasket is 0.058 If I put the pump together as it is now < I have found 0.250 clearance in total with a factory new> without blueprinting it may or may not work, and if it does pump eventualy I will start overheating Gentlemen I think all of you are suffering from pump failure related to excessive internal clearance.

To the man that has bubbles. You might try having your head retorqued. New head bolts are cheap You can do it yourself. Allan
Sun Sep 07, 2008 7:05 pm View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
dumbo316



Joined: 07 Jul 2008
Posts: 3



Post Reply with quote
daem wrote:


To the man that has bubbles. You might try having your head retorqued. New head bolts are cheap You can do it yourself. Allan

how would i do this. I'm still fresh to this
Sun Sep 07, 2008 8:57 pm View user's profile Send private message
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